Laurel forest, cacti and a sea of clouds – circular route across the Teno-Hochfläche

The Teno-Hochfläche connects ancient stone paths, blooming cottage gardens and a laurel forest panorama that no photograph can quite capture.

On the Teno-Hochfläche: what to expect on these 9.5 km

I was sceptical before I set off. Nine kilometres on a high plateau – sounds flat and unspectacular at first. But after just the first few metres of elevation gain, you realise that something quite different is waiting here. The Teno- Hochfläche (Teneriffa) route is no stroll, but no feat of endurance either. Above all, it is one thing: a continuous succession of images that barely gives you time to catch your breath.

The start: old Caminos and flowering stone walls

The path begins on old cobblestones. The so-called Caminos Reales – historic trade routes of the mountain farmers – are still largely preserved. The cobblestones can become treacherous when wet; walking poles are not a sign of weakness, but of good sense. I needed them. Along the first sections, dry-stone walls of natural stone accompany you, stacked by someone decades – perhaps centuries – ago with bare hands. Craftsmanship that endures.

Shortly after, you pass a traditional stone house whose front garden is overflowing with red, yellow and pink blossoms. The contrast between the rustic façade and this abundance of flowers is almost surreal – and an ideal first photo subject, best early on, when the light is still soft. Right beside it: a flower-lined village path, yellow and red against old stone walls, blue sky above. That is how the tour begins.

Middle section: between laurel forest and rock sculptures

Those who look carefully will discover rock formations that break like sculptures from the wooded hillside – a striking outcrop reminiscent of a human silhouette suddenly rises above the lush green. The rock itself is sometimes jagged and rough, sometimes smooth and dark, always of volcanic origin.

Then: the laurel forest. The Laurisilva vegetation is the heart of this section. Cool, shady, slightly damp – the ground can be slippery, so watch your step. Those who walk slowly are rewarded with an almost meditative forest feeling. The Teno-Gebirge is one of the geologically oldest formations on the island and has preserved this forest vegetation for thousands of years – a fact you feel physically here, not merely read about.

Just before the plateau opens up properly, prickly pear cacti appear. Opuntias on volcanic rock, beneath an unbroken blue sky. If you feel like touching them: don’t. The tiny glochids come loose easily and land painfully in your fingertips.

At the top: sea of clouds, the Atlantic and neighbouring islands

On the plateau, the view opens up. You are now standing at around 970 metres, and when the trade wind clouds are drifting low, you are quite literally floating above them. The cloud band sits at around 1,000 m, the Atlantic shimmers behind it – on clear days you can even see the neighbouring islands. A cone-shaped wooded hill with a turquoise water basin at its foot appears by the wayside, deep blue sea behind it. The photo takes itself.

White hydrangeas bloom along the open sections of the path; from May to August they are abundant. The cloud spectacle here is no rarity – when the north-east wind blows, the moist air of the trade winds sweeps across the plateau, wrapping the laurel trees in mist and shifting the light within minutes from harsh to muted to dramatic. Those who wait will be rewarded.

Practical information for the tour

• Distance: 9.5 km, start and end at around 537 m, highest point approx. 972 m.
• Getting there: The Teno-Gebirge is located in the far north-west of Tenerife, easily reached via the TF-436 from Buenavista del Norte; alternatively by local bus 355.
• Parking: Few spaces directly at the starting point; it pays to start early.
• Food and drink: In the hamlet of Teno Alto there is a small shop with fresh goat’s cheese and local wine – a real insider tip that turns the break into an experience.
• Equipment: Sturdy footwear with grip is essential, walking poles are recommended, light windproof jacket for the cloud sections.
• Best time of year: Spring and autumn for pleasant temperatures; in summer, start in the morning before the midday heat sets in.
• Water: Bring enough with you – there is no reliable supply along the way.

The tour is not suitable for pushchairs or people with serious knee problems. But those who enjoy walking old paths, appreciate changes in vegetation and are looking for a panorama that shifts between the Atlantic and a sea of clouds – this is the place for them.